Stunned Dutch reflect on tolerance
Rod Smith
http://www.indystar.com/articles/1/195218-4451-021.html

Amsterdam is reeling. The city known for its natural beauty, tenacity, diversity and tolerance of all manner of human endeavor is tense. It took a real hit on Nov. 2 with the violent slaying of an outspoken columnist, television personality, movie director and public figure, Theo van Gogh, a man who claimed a direct descent from artist Vincent van Gogh.

The national celebrity, known for a string of scathing documentaries, for his brazen and naked honesty about political and social issues, for oddball views on faith and religion and his in-your-face newspaper articles, apparently was riding to work on his bicycle.

Not too far from the center of this beautiful city, van Gogh was shot and then stabbed to death. The knife in his chest pinned a threatening declaration addressed to other city figures, warning them that danger lurked for all who were outspoken critics of militant Islam.

Such an act committed among any people in any city of the world would be understandably unsettling. But there is outrage in the peaceful, multicultural, diverse and tolerant city of Amsterdam.

In a city that appears beyond shock, with open prostitution, over-the-counter dope available at coffee shops, sex shops and live shows promoting activities unprintable in a Midwest newspaper, the city is stunned with this flagrant attack on freedom of speech.

"Well, you see," says the middle-aged woman I approach at the busy Dam Square, "we have lived peacefully, side by side for many, many years: Christians, Jews, Catholics and Muslims. And now this! I am not so sure anymore. The letter said the mayor is next." I had just seen her place a wreath at one elaborate shrine to van Gogh.

"We've tolerated intolerance for too long," says a learned-looking man over his coffee in another of my random conversations, "and now no one will have the courage to stand up to it." The man laughs sardonically to himself, as if I have already left him. He turns the page of his English newspaper, and I go on my way.

"The Dutch people value freedom of speech, but he was too free for some people," a bus driver told me as we wound at surprisingly high speed over bridges and canals, the city's lights handsomely reflected in multiple bodies of water visible on both sides of the bus.

"Here, in Amsterdam you can say anything you want, but now everybody has to be careful after the warnings written on the letter," the driver added almost beneath his breath.

I asked the driver of Bus 22, as we went through the Indonesian and largely Muslim Quarter, about what the letter contained. He told me he'd rather not say. I got the message. I saw him wonder why I asked so many questions about the death of van Gogh. I think he wondered who on the bus might overhear our conversation.

During my visit, it was not tulips, wooden clogs, windmills, the smell of freshly baked delights or the many eccentric stories of the famous Dutch son, Vincent van Gogh, that were the focus of attention in Amsterdam.

There was confusion and fear. Already, legend abounds regarding the details of Theo van Gogh's death, and the air is full of conspiracy theories. I heard discussions, and I saw evidences of anger about what happened to the provocative native of this beautiful city who, like his acclaimed distant relative, dared speak his mind.

Smith, of Indianapolis, is executive director of Open Hand Inc.