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Ancient Perfumes
« on: 2002-04-08 04:28:47 » |
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Scientists sniff out recipe for pharaohs' perfume
Source: Times Online
Authors: Helen Studd
Dated: April 08, 2002
FRENCH scientists have discovered the secret of the original Egyptian perfume used by the pharaohs and recreated it for the first time in 3,000 years.
The discovery was made by experts from the cosmetic manufacturer L’Oréal, who combined their knowledge of oils found in 500 toiletry vessels looted by Napoleon’s forces with pictorial recipes on two Egyptian temple walls.
Hieroglyphics at Edfu temple on the Nile show how a variety of plants and processes were combined to produce the solid perfume ball, Kyphi. Others at Philae temple, near Aswan, portray pictures of the perfume being applied.
After six years of research, aided by the writings of Plutarch, the Ancient Greek historian, scientists have reproduced the complicated scent, a sample of which will go on display today in Cairo.
Burnt over charcoal as it would have been 4,000 years ago instead of being applied to the skin, it smells first of lemon grass and peppermint then juniper berries and cinnamon. The room is filled with the pungent aroma, which slowly soaks into the hair and skin. Patricia Pineau, who directed the research, said: “The Ancient Egyptians had a subtle and advanced understanding of the scientific process.”
She added: “Egyptian experts recognise the smells and say they believe it is close to perfection.”
The study started in 1996 with the analysis of microscopic samples taken from vessels looted by Napoleon during his ill-fated invasion of 1798. However, as the oils and grease used as a base for ancient perfumes had altered over time, research then turned to the recipes themselves. Eventually, the experts focused on the one noted down by Plutarch in his book Travels from Isis to Osiris. The recipe appeared to correspond with Edfu’s hieroglyphics.
The perfume was used by the pyramid builders of the Old Kingdom in 2700BC and Nefertiti and Tutankhamun, of the New Kingdom, until that pharaonic line died out in 1080BC. It has continued to be made since then, but with a different recipe involving alcohol. In addition to putting balls in the hair to scent it and protect it from the sun, Kyphi, which is the Greek name for the perfume, was used in the preparation of mummies. According to Lise Manniche, an Egyptologist at the University of Copenhagen, perfume was an indispensable funerary gift because it was believed to promote sex after death.
L’Oréal does not intend to manufacture the perfume commercially, saying that its research is driven purely by an interest in history.
Make your own
- Grind up 270g of reed roots (Acorus calamus), lemongrass, pistachio nuts, cinnamon, mint and wood of the myrtle tree.
- Separately grind up 270g of juniper berries, Chaerophyllum (a green leafy herb) and Cyperus longus roots (equivalent to the Spanish "horchata").
- Mix the two powders together and combine with grape wine. Leave to sit for one day. Mix with 1.8kg of skinless, seedless grapes and 2.25kg of palm wine. Leave for five days.
- Then bring 1.2kg of incense and 3kg of honey to the boil and reduce to 3.36kg. Mix with the other ingredients and leave for a further five days.
- Add 1kg of ground myrrh. Mould into round balls about one centimetre in diameter. Put the perfume in a long pipe and burn.
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